Bayindir Limani (Kas) to Fethiye - Days 36 & 37 - 2nd & 3rd September 2009

Bright (?) and early (??) Sean and JB arrived and we set sail. As we did not have as much time as initially anticipated on account of our 'bright and early' start, we headed to Yesilkoy Limani, a bay just the other side of Kalkan.  Although Sean had never set foot on a sailing yacht before JB had been sailing since he was a child so with an extra pair of competent hands and an extra pair of willing hands we arrived at our destinantion mid-afternoon with plenty of time for a swim.

 

The girls had Sean and JB in the water immediately and persuaded them into diving competitions and synchronised 'bombing' off the side of the boat.  I'm not sure who collapsed with exhaustion first, but it certainly wasn't the girls.

 

Over dinner we cracked a bottle of the finest french champagne that we had on board (we only had one bottle) on account of JB finally managing to convince a girl that he would make a fine french husband.  After we watched some extremely confusing and complicated children's movie,  I think it was called 'Igor'.

 

Just as we were all dropping off to sleep there was a shout from the deck and everyone scrambled up to look.  The skipper had noticed that the lines that we had taken ashore earlier had gone slack.  This could only mean one thing, the anchor was dragging and we were drifting perilously close to the rocks....

 

After a short, frantic, discussion it was decided that with plenty of hands on board we would sail overnight :-)

 

So we upped anchor and away we went off toward Olu Deniz.

 

Sean sailing

We arrived at Olu Deniz around 6.30am, just as the sun was thinking about poking it's head above the horizon - you will have to trust the skippers account on this due to the fact that all of the willing hands the night before had, in fact, decided to sleep.  The indefatiguable skipper cruised up and down the beach looking for a decent place to anchor.  Finding none obvious we went around the corner to the next bay.

 

Eventually the ever willing crew were woken by a quick slap around the head and told to get the lines ready to tie us to the shore.  Of course I only refer to the recent additions to the crew, the Skipper knows better than to try this trick on the existing crew.

 

Soon enough we were swimming and diving and sleeping.  JB trawled around the other yachts in the bay to see who taken him to either Olu Deniz or Fethiye so that he could catch a bus to Antalya where he was due to meet his brother the next day.  Eventually he found a Turkish fisherman prepared to run him the 5 minutes around the corner for a very reasonable €75.

 

Once we found out what JB was planning to do, we, in no uncertain terms, told him not to be so daft.  So shortly after lunch we upped anchor and set sail yet again for the short hop around the corner to Fethiye where we moored up at 'Yes Marina'.

 

As this would be the boys last night with us the skipper decided that a farewell tipple was in order.  So after a fantastic meal arranged by the Marina, the kids and The Admiral were sent packing back to the boat whilst the boys kept the Turkish brewery, Efes, afloat in these troubling economic times.

 

Eventually the boys ended up in an upclass establishment called the 'Car Cemetery', where the walls are festooned with bits of, you guessed it, old automobiles.  The fact that a tour party of 12 NZ and AU girls happened to be drinking there was completely  irrelevant.

 

At around 3am we eventually commenced the journey back the the boat which was that way, or was it that way?   We ended up having a very serious  discussion at an ancient, ruined amipheatre, about life in olden times - or so Sean told me the next day.

 

Finally we arrived back at around 5am and rolled into bed.  When we awoke in the morning JB had jumped ship, presumably to find a bus/lift to Antalya.

 JB aka Monsier Le Frog

Kas to Bayindir Limani - Day 35 - 1st September 2009

We thought it was about time we sailed again so decided to move round to a bay on the other side of Kas where we had been told there was a good restaurant begining with 'N'.  As we approached we saw restaurants on the shore none of which began with an 'N', however on getting closer in we finally spotted a small bay tucked away at the far end with Nuri's Beach Restaurant on the shore. 

 

After mooring up the girls went for a swim from the beach area whilst we got down to the serious business in the bar.  There were also kayaks on the beach and the girls also spent some time in a 2 person kayak before begging Daddy to go and join them.  

 

When Daddy finally decided to join in the water he noted something odd in the cliffs high above the bay. Taking each child in turn we paddled to the foot of the cliffs and looked up.  There above us appeared to be 3 Lycian cliff tombs.  After showing off Erica and Daddy decided to go rock climbing to see if we could get upto the tombs.

 

Notice the rope, this is the hand rail up the cliffs, below it is a near vertical drop of a couple of 100 feet.  Erica didn't appear to be too stressed by the experience, but we agreed to not tell mummy how narrow the path was!!!

 

On the way up we bumped into two guys on the way down - we said a quick 'Hi!' and thought that would be the last we saw of them.  How wrong we were.

 

We decided to eat in the resturant on the beach, actually it is expected - if you dock on their mooring, plug into their 'electric city', fill up the water tanks and dump your trash on them, it is only reasonable that you buy at least a coffee.  Over dinner the 2 chaps we spotted whilst tomb raiding came in and sat at a nearby table.  Eventually we called them over and started chatting.

 

Sean is a Tasmanian backpacker and J.B. is a french highflyer taking a short sabatical.  We ascertained that JB's girl had agreed to marry him that very day by email.  Now call me old fashioned but such a foolish undertaking as marriage should not be negotiated by twitter, facebook nor email.  Kids today........

 

So we decided to celebrate - first task, send wife and kids to bed, second task order more beer.

 

After a little while a cooked fish suddenly appeared on our table.  We enquired of the waiter why it had appeared and he replied that it was a gift from the chief Coastguard at another table at the resturant, apparently it was his birthday.  Naturally we send a round of drinks to his table and we were promptly invited over to share his raki.  For the unititiated raki is a turkish aniseed-based firewater.

 

Some time later, and by now time had become a vague concept, I figured out that we were drinking raki all wrong.  The Turks drink water, sip raki, drink water.  We were drinking beer, drinking raki and drinking beer.  Oh well, too late this time - must try to remember for the next time.

 

Somehow during the evening we had invited Sean and JB to join us on a sail up to Fethiye - when exactly I don't recall.  During our conversation with The Coastguard this happened to come up, he asked me if I had remembered to add the two guests onto our ships papers.  Oh bugger.

 

After a few moments of bluster he told me not to worry as we would surely have left in the morning before he came out on patrol.  "What time does your patrol start?" I enquired, "Long after you have left, but I don't know what time the Kalkan Coastguard will start" he replied.   I bought him another round of beer and raki and got the waiter to write down the name, telephone number and boat ID of The Coastguard just incase we met his friend from Kalkan. 

Day Trip to Kastellorizo - Day 34 - 31st August 2009

Tourist visas for Turkey are only valid for 90 days.  Ours were getting on for 60 days since we made a trip in June to sail with Sue and Alan before we took delivery of the yacht.  As Kastellorizo is only 3km from Turkey we decided to make a day trip and renew our visas.

 

We could have sailed Mirica across, but the formalities of leaving Turkey, checking into Greece and then reversing the process would have taken our blood pressure dangerously close to critical.  Instead we jumped on the ferry boat for the 20 minute journey.

 

The island has a long and varied history being occupied at various times by Dorian Greeks, Knights of St. John, Eygpt, Naples, Ottoman, Italy, UK, Turkey before formally joining the greek state in 1948.  In it's heyday in the late 19th century over 10,000 people inhabited the island and it was an important harbour on the Fethiye - Beirut route.  Today there is something like 400 inhabitants, virtually all living around the harbour.  More of the fascinating history can be read here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kastelorizo.

 

 

We spent the day wondering around the small houses that line the harbour and had a spot of lunch at a greek taverna.

 

Not being a muslim country it is also possible to buy bacon - mmmmmm.  We stocked up well and smuggled it back in to Turkey with us.  We also aquired some for our friends on Octopus.

 

Chilling in Kas - Day 33 - 30th August 2009

Today we explored the town of Kas.  It is a fantastically beautiful little town and whilst it was still a tourist destination, it had a bit more class compared with Kemer and Alanya.  We heard a story that when the europeans where here making maps in the early 1900's, the town was so poor that they had to go to a nearby greek island of Kastellorizo to buy chickens to feed themselves.  Today the people of Kastellorizo come to Kas on market day to stock up.  Kas is a good example of how tourism can be done right to increase the wealth of a town without trashing it.

 

One of the highlights of Kas is a rather spectacular Lycian sarchogus near to the harbour. 

 

 

Polemos Buku to Kas - Day 33 - 29th August 2009

We decided to spend a few days as Polemos Buku, doing the normal chores such as swimming, snorkelling, reading, snoozing, cogitating etc - this sailing lark is a darn hard life, I'm not sure you guys appreciate the hardships we are having to endure.

 

On the morning of 28th, Gerry and Brigitte moved off to Kas and the next day we decided to follow them.

 

Late start today, it wasn't until 9.30 that the anchor was dragged up and we were off.  As the journey was relatively short we had plenty of time to sail and keep the engine turned off, so we spent the day tacking.  I'm not very good yet at figuring out what the apparent wind will be doing when we tack, so I had lots of practise trying to estimate our heading and if I had left it long enough to make it around a particular chunk of hard stuff.

 

As we approached Kas the winds suddenly got a bit frisky and we quickly had to reef in the sails.  The sea also changed colour from it's normal turqoise to a frothy white and decided to become a bit lumpy.  Whilst I wasn't paying particular attention to the wind gauge, fighting the winds and sea and not running aground taking up most of my limited attention span,  I did note that at least 29kn was attained - officially Force 7 or near gale.

 

Fortunately we only had to suffer this for about an hour before reaching the shelter of Bucak Deniz, a long inlet north of Kas that reaches right to the edge of town, where as planned we found Octopus and our dear friends Brigitte and Gerry.

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